What is the difference between a 12 volt marine battery for a boat, and a 12 volt battery for a car?

Question:
Marine batteries seem to be much more expensive, I'm wondering if its really necessary to go to the extra expense .

Answers:

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Marine (deep cell) batteries are mean to be drained dead and re-charged. Car batteries will get ruined if you do that too many times. See, a marine battery doesn't have to power anything continually, just mainly starting motor, bilge pump, occasionally lights, and for when you run trolling motors it will take a lot of power out of he battery as a deep cell allows it to be drained dead and recharged with out killing the battery cars once are started run of the alt as the alt runs the car and recharge the battery from when u started it it your boat motor has a charger and your not sitting with light n or running a trolling motor then car battery would work fine

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Marine batteries have extra sealing and housing to keep water out of them. If you buy a normal battery, it would probably work alright, but probably not worth the risk if it gets wet.

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Marine (deep cell) batteries are mean to be drained dead and re-charged. Car batteries will get ruined if you do that too many times. See, a marine battery doesn't have to power anything continually, just mainly starting motor, bilge pump, occasionally lights, etc. A car battery HAS to have a full charge at all times, to run ignition and keep engine running once it's started. Usually, marine batteries are used in applications where there's no alternator, or constant re-charging of the battery. So when it dies, you just re-charge it and go.

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There are many factors that differentiate a marine battery from an automotive battery, but the main differences for a marine application are:

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Fully sealed [no acid leaks = no damage, fumes, or danger]
Extra internal protection against harsh vibration
Deep cycle [meaning - drain, charge, drain, charge, etc]

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An automotive battery in a marine application is a hazard to the boat, it's occupants, and the water. Not to mention it will likely strand you somewhere. The marine battery is fully worth the extra purchase price.

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I hope that helps~

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If you notice the deep cycle battery also carries a very short guarantee 1 yr maybe two, were as car battery's can carry up to 5 yrs.
I have two boats one is a ski boat and the other is a CC bay boat, I don't run trolling motors just radios and other standard equipment on my boats.
I use car battery's and I have been for fifteen years, never had one problem and if the battery goes bad during the winter I just take it back to Wal-mart and get a new one free up to three yrs.
As far as getting water in your Batt. if it's that deep in your boat that will be the least of your problems, and deep c. batts ts have vapor release also.
Now if you are going too be running trolling motors etc. then you will need the deep cy batt.

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There are 2 types of marine battery's

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12 volt "Starting" type for cranking

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12 volt "Deep Cycle" for electronics running w/ the motor off

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Small boats just use "Cranking" type, and a few toys "Sonar" Lights, bilge pump, etc..

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Both types of battery's are rated for "MARINE" use, and are sealed better, as well as having a "Beefier" case, and thicker cell plates inside, in short, They are built much more "Rugged", car battery's deliver poor performance in the Marine world. The cases usually crack from all of the bouncing over the waves, remember, no shocks or springs on a boat, like a car.

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Starting batteries, also known as high-torque batteries, have high cranking amps, but lower reserve time ratings. Deep cycle or dual purpose batteries can also have high cranking power, but they have higher reserve capacity as well. This allows more discharge/recharge capability. Deep Cycle batteries are helpful in situations where you have a lot of electronics, a trolling motor, etc. Automotive batteries are usually lighter construction and lower reserve time.
Heavier construction, e.g. thicker plates, makes marine batteries stronger. This allows them to better tolerate the conditions they are exposed to in marine use. It is a common misconception that automotive batteries, engine parts, etc. are interchangeable with marine parts. This is NOT true. There are many differences in construction, especially when related to anything involving electrical, fuel, or the dampness inherent to boating. Safety is always an important factor, and stronger tolerance to the abuse of marine situations is also an issue.

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Standard use and recharging of a battery with an alternator or battery charger when the battery discharges, causes little harm to a battery's life. Allowing your battery to fully discharge, either by letting it sit idle for a long period of time or through heavy use without recharging, will severely shorten the battery's life. Repeatedly cycling a battery (discharging and charging in midrange, never being charged to 100% of its capacity) is also a factor in premature battery failure.

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Another common misconception with marine batteries is cranking amps. "Cold Cranking Amps" (CCA) is a reference for 0 degree cranking power, while "Marine Cranking Amps" (MCA) is a reference for 32 degree cranking power. While CCA can be an issue with automotive battery power, MCA is the cranking power you're interested in when buying a marine battery.

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A battery loses its ability to be fully recharged by building Crystalline Sulfate, which can't be broken down by normal charging, so it reduces the battery's capacity. If enough build-up occurs, the battery can't be charged. When you try to charge the battery, the regulator will sense a false reading that indicates the battery is fully charged.

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Although gel-cell batteries require less maintenance than wet-cell batteries, they are more expensive. Wet-cell batteries perform better and are less expensive, and can last for a long time if you give them the proper care.

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Wet-cell battery life can be improved by topping off with distilled water if the electrolyte level drops too low. Ideally, it should be ½" above the plates of the battery. Although this is an unnecessary step with a gel-cell battery, you'll pay more for it, and get weaker performance.

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Storing a marine battery properly for the winter is also a factor in battery damage. If the battery is not at a full state of charge, it can freeze. But heat causes a battery to discharge faster. A cool, dry area is the best place to store a battery, such as a shelf in a garage or basement, as long as dampness is not an issue. Batteries should be charged about once a month overnight (12 hours) at about 2 amps to maintain them over the winter.

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Marine batteries are different - They are designed to deep draw down to low voltage levels without damaging the plates. They not only have to start the motor but also run the lights and trolling motor for long periods of time without a recharge. Car batteries only need to start the car then the charge system takes over and runs the cars' lights and accessories.

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Marine deep cycle batteries are designed to have a deep discharge life cycle. They can recover from many cycles of charge and discharge. Without any effects on battery life. They are for long operation without being recharged. For example a trolling motor on a bass boat. Or a house battery on a cruiser. Powering lights, refrigerator and other 12 volt powered equipment when the engines are off. Then you want a battery that that will not put out a lot of amps at once like a car battery. A car battery is designed to do that. A marine starting battery will do the same as a car battery will do. Put out a lot of amps to start the motor. The plates are thicker to hold up to the vibration. They will to a point work as a deep cycle battery. Its a compromise over a deep cycle battery.

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Batteries are designed for purpose. Its just problems if you try to use the wrong battery for an application. Nothing ruins a nice afternoon at a sandbar than a dead battery when its time to head home.

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