Is there and alternative to winterizing inboard boat engines?

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A cracked block is always an option!

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I'd advise against skimping in any way on boat engine winterizing... trust me on this one!

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Be sure all the water is drained from the block and that should do it. There should be a couple of drain valves, same as radiator drains, on the side near the bottom of the block. disconnect any water hoses you may have and drain. water is your only problem. A small amount won't hurt but drain as much as possible and that should do it.

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Coast Guard approved electric bilge heaters, after you determine free air space in engine room to determine size of heater required.

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yes there is, but it is a risky proposition. As said above there are bilge heaters that will keep the engine room above freezing. However, if there is a power failure you are risking some serious damage to the engines and other equipment onboard. Check out this company:
www.boatsafeheaters.net

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keep it in the garage and turn some heat on when it's freezing. i keep 50K sq.ft. like that.

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If you don't like paying a marina to winterize your boat, it is pretty simple to learn, but if you fail to do it at all, you will be paying the marina to install a new engine.

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I have heard of people using a "ear muff" attachment on their stern drives to feed the engine several gallons of RV type antifreeze. This prevents freezing, but it takes a bit of engineering to make this work, not to mention about 10 gallons of RV anti freeze.

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tronay is right. water in the block/heads/hoses/manifolds are your worst enemy. Contrary to what th other posts are, an inboard or I/O winterization only requires 5 gallons of RV antifreeze (pink) Start engine(s) on muffs, let them warm up, (t-stat open) shut down, hook up antifreeze muffs and 5 gallon RV antifreeze and restart engine. When anti-freeze is almost gone out of jug, shut down engine. Done.

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However, if you are like me, I change oil/filter prior to winterizing and then after winterizing, I pull out spark plugs and put some oil in plug holes and turn engine over a few turns. Reinstall plugs and wait for summer.

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Don't skimp on winterizing. I have replaced MANY engines from owners not winterizing correctly. Sometimes they get lucky and the exhaust manifolds are junk or one head is bad but, 9 out of 10, the block is cracked. Pay the $100 for a right winterization or someday, you might be paying $6000 for an engine change.
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