What can i use so that my subs wont lower my car battery?

Question:
When i have my car turned on the RPM needle goes down its like at 3/4 of the number 1 and when the bass of the subs sound it will bring the needle down to almost 1/4 also the headlight beam loses power

how IN DETAIL do I wire my 2 subs in paralel?



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HERE ARE MY SUBS

I would like to know which speakers should I buy ? Blaupunkt's TSX 693 or JBL's Gto 937.?


2 - 10" rockford fosgate punch
2 - 12" sony explode

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http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m269/...

Answers:

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First off, you're breaking one of the golden rules of car audio. You never ever play 2 different types of subs in your vehicle. 2 different types of subs will work against each other and reduce your bass, not increase it. Even if they are the same size, but different brands, series or whatever, they don't work in concert and will counter each other's performance. Also, if the subs are near each other, then you run a high risk of damage because they will push against each other. This is almost as bad as touching them with something while they're playing...it can burn them up. So I seriously suggest matching your subs as soon as possible. But as to your problem...
The problem you are having is common in your situation. If you're running 4 subs, then that means you're drawing a heavy load from your car's eletrical system. A tune up won't help your system one iota (not enough for you to notice anyway) so don't worry about that nonsense. You need electrical power. The first thing you're going to have to do is add a stiffening capacitor(s). They come in units call Farads. The rule of thumb is to use 1 farad for every 1000 watts. Right now in my vehicle I have 3 amps pushing about 1500 watts. I have 2 one farad capacitors and I also replaced my factory battery with an Optima Red Top and added an Optima Yellow Top to my trunk and now I have to really crank the bass to see any headlight dimming at all.
Think of a stiffening cap as a water reservoir. When you first get them and charge them, they store up energy like a reservoir, then when your bass hits hard they supply your amp with the needed boost in power whle your vehicle's electrical system just puts out the same power as normal, thereby reducing the drag on your alternator and battery. Any amp tech will also tell you that you can increase the lifespan of your amp's power supply by using a cap because the cap also reduces the wear and tire on your amp.
Caps run you about $100 for 1 farad, $150 for 2. And whatever you do, don't go cheap when buying a cap. Stay away from Audiobahn, Boss, Legacy, Pyle...all that junk...their caps are crap and never do what they claim. I've had an Audiobahn come apart in my trunk after only 2 weeks, and my colleagues have had the same trouble from their products.
And you'd probaly do well to not listen to the guy that claims he's mecp certified...if he actually were, then he would know that Optima batteries are sealed and do not vent fumes so you CAN mount them inside your trunk without having to vent them. The only good advice he had was that you should be using at least 4 gauge wire from your battery to your amp(s). Also, he would have warned you about using 2 different types of subs if he were, indeed, mecp certified. He's just another blow-hard that knows one or two things and thinks he knows it all.

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Get a stronger battery and a heavy duty alternator. A tune up wouldn't hurt.

does connecting an auto radio direct to the battery affect or take the power from it,i have to renew it?

You definitely need a stiffening capacitor. They help hold charge between bass notes. I would say at least 1 Farad would lead to a dramatic improvement. (Cheap and Effective!)

10s 12s 15s....18s? Is there really a difference?


If you don't have an Optima battery you should get a Red Top for general use or a Yellow Top if you plan on running the stereo for long periods with the car off. (Good idea for any car with amp(s))

What is the best brand for bass speakers?


If those ideas are not enough a second battery in parallel and/or a high current alternator will help.

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PS If you got rid of your current setup for two JL Audio Subs (much much higher quality than rockford or sony) you would make more efficient use of trunk space, have increased sound output and increased sound quality.

I can't sleep at nights - too much loud music from car steroes?

First off, you may need a new battery, if you get one make sure it is a deep cycle (i.e. optima, deka, svr, kinetic, etc). You could also have a bad alternator or just an older smaller alternator that can't handle the load of the amps (might want to look into a new one, high ouput is recommended). And also add some capacitors, rule of thumb is 1farad for every 500 watts rms from your amps. If you have any questions feel free to email me. hope this helps.

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Also, after looking at your pic, why don't you just sell all that and buy 2 good 12 in subs and an amp. With that setup you are getting a lot of cancellation and not anywhere near maximum performance and output from the subs. First off, one enclosure is sealed and the other is ported (this results in cancellation and a muffling of sounds), you have 2 different kinds of subs (2 10s, 2 12s, and both are from different companies) so each enclosure has different parameters and response (i.e. frequency response, sensitivity, etc). this will cause cancellation and a crappy bass response. Also, please tell me each enclosure has it's own amp, I hope you don't have all 4 subs running of the same amp. Do like I said, sell it all and go buy you some good equipment that matches up correctly both wattage wise (rms), ohms (amp and subs), and enclosure. It will be worth it, trust me. You'll get a hell of a lot better sounding bass and most likely more of it (better response and SPL,SQ).

amp problems?

Firstly, make sure your gains are set correctly. It is possible that you're getting a massive drain because they aren't set right. Amplifier gains should not be set "by ear". Different tools are required, I say the easiest way would be to use a volt-ohm meter (or multimeter, whatever you want to call it) to match the output voltage of your amplifiers with the output voltage of your head unit. I know people pushing over 2000w RMS on just an upgraded battery with a stock alternator that do not get any sort of dimming at all.
Brings me to the second suggestion, unless your alternator is going bad or is already bad, you'll want a new battery. Replace it with a quality deep cycle battery (Optima Yellow Tops are popular). Adding a 2nd battery would also help dramatically.
Then you can replace your alternator with a heavy duty one. Just shop around, they're not hard to find.
If you play rap\hip hop or any kind of music with lots of bass, adding a capacitor will do nothing for you. In fact, it may add to the problem. Capacitors simply hold a charge until the amplifier needs more power, then it steals from the cap instead of draining the battery too much. If you play music with loads of bass, the cap(s) will discharge quickly, and will possibly add to the problem, because they may drain the battery in order to charge back up while the amplifier is still requesting more power from the battery. If you play music that just has the occasional bass line, then a cap may help.
Whatever you do, you should do it soon because this power drain is definately not good. Seeing as how you have 4 subs, I'm going to assume you're looking for volume as opposed to quality. With this being the case, you may look into getting rid of what you currently have (sell it, throw it at someone, burn it, whatever you want to do) and settling with subwoofers known for higher output power. If you want to stick with Rockford Fosgate, definately look at their Power series woofers. Contrary to "popular belief", JL Audio hardly makes loud woofers. They sound good, but their only loud woofer line is the w7, which is very expensive in comparision to other comparable woofers. Sony woofers can be loud, but they are known for dying quickly\easily when given lot of power. Hope this helps.

I need an xm radio smart controller for bose xm ready car stereo?

simply change your alternator to 90 amperes. thats all u gonna do to have a long life batt. take note that any vehicle who uses their sounds w/ engine off really kills the battery.

I want to buy my husband a XM system for his vehicle, but I do not know what I would need to do it?

Definetely need to upgrade like some other people told you. Get a new battery and alternator. You should be able to find and alternator that puts out 125+amperes for a decent price. Check into some Coustic Carbon Fiber series 12"s they sound nice and hit hard and fast for 12"s. Try changing your enclosure too, it make a big difference what kind of box your speakers are in.

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You could put a 1 farad capacitor just before the amp when the amp askes for a large burst of power the cap will dump its power to make less strain on the battery and altinator however it takes 7 times longer to charge a cap than it takes to dump its efficient power. But this also helps the headlights from dimming. Also you might want to put a larger gauge wire from the chasis to the altinator so the energy returning to the altinator isnt wasted in the form of heat. think of the existing wire on the altinator as a trffic jam of current. Adding another battery wont help that would just put more strain on the altinator trying to keep 2 batterys charged unless you have a high amp altinator. If you do add another battery instead of a cap which is better than a batt. make sure you put it in a vented area you dont want a battery releasing its gases in the cab or trunk it could start a fire and or be unhealthy to breath.I am MECP (mobile electronics certified professional) Some of these guys that have answered not all are only going by what might just look cool and be popular like the yellow top batteries or high current altinators! not neccesary to fix the problem. Frankly im geting kind of sick of most people trying to answer questions they really dont have a clue about.
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