Question:
Ok so I ran my Jetta throughout the day just fine with no problems. I came home left it idle for 2 minutes and came back to it running rough. My girlfriend said it had stalled out and she had restarted it. So I press the gas and it stalls. I restart it and it does this a few times. I do this a few times til it ends up just idling smooththen I put it in gear and it stalls out again. Then it becomes harder to restart. Battery is still strong. It just wont start? So I leave it overnight then in the morning it will not start at all still.. It just tries but nothing.. It doesnt attempt to pop sput Nil'.
I checked my fuel pressure by taking off the fuel line that goes into the fuel rail. Plenty of pressure! Checked the spark by taking out the plug and lettin it spark off of a part of the engine while the girlfriend cranked the engine. Got spark! I even replace the cap and rotor just incase but still nothing
ANY IDEAS !!??
Answers:
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Fuel pumps on modern fuel-injected cars push a LOT of pressure and a fairly high rate of flow. Old, carb-equipped cars, typically ran on a fuel pressure of approximately 5 psi. Modern fuel-injection systems typically run on 60 - 90 psi (varies with make and model). I had a VW Fox with a CIS-E fuel injection system which ran on about 140 psi of fuel pressure.I'm in an asky mood.. Sooo.. SUPERCHARGED or TURBOCHARGED?
That being said, fuel pumps don't necessarily stop working instantly. They frequently taper off and pump at lower pressure (causing the car to run rough), and the car will eventually stall and may re-start, or may just not start again. But if you pull a fuel line, gasoline will spray out, because the pump is still pumping, just not nearly enough.
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That being said, check your timing belt to make sure it hasn't jumped the timing, stripped its teeth off, or broken. A good sign your timing belt is either stripped or broken is that your starter turns your engine too quickly and too easily. Listen for how the engine spins. If you suspect a problem of this type, try pulling the upper timing belt cover off - you should be able to loosen it by pulling a couple of clips off it (that's the way it is on my '95 Golf GL 2.0). The air intake and fuel lines may be in the way. Try moving them without disconnecting them. See if the belt and cam pulley move when someone else spins the starter. Spin - good, Not - bad.
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Also, try towing the car down to the auto parts store down the street from your home. They should have a hand-held scan tool and be able to tell you if there is a problem stored in the ECU's memory.
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In case you're wondering, pull the reflector next to the passenger-side turn signal. In the trunk, with the spare tire and jack, you will find a gold-colored "eye" with a left-hand screw on the end. Screw this into the hole next to the turn signal, screwing it counter-clockwise. With that, you can tow the car short distances with the wheels on the ground. If you have an automatic, keep it under 25 mph and less than 15 miles, or else, you risk damaging the tranny. For either a 5-speed or an automatic, tow in neutral, and be prepared for stiff steering and a stiff brake pedal. Use 2 experienced drivers and a good tow rope. Or else, fork over the $75+ for a tow truck. Or, it may work out to nearly the same thing to buy an OBD-II scan tool. Do this only if you intend to go to the auto parts store down the street, don't tow the car with the wheels on the ground too far or too fast. Also check your local laws.
Good news: If it is the fuel pump, you don't have to drop the tank. Just lift up the carpet and unscrew a plate in the floor next to the spare tire. That plate should be about 8 - 10 inches across, and circular. It may have 1 - 3 Phillips screws. Under it, you will find hoses and wires going to the fuel pump and fuel gauge assembly. Your repair manual will help you from there (stay away from Chilton. Get Bentley or Haynes). Don't smoke, really.
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I am thinking possibly a bad alternator?Its a chip problem! check your air intake box for connections , if they have shaken loose that is the problem , but assuming all patent its a dodgey chip. if it is air intake gaffer tape ( or prefer to correct connections 0and it should be fine
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You have spark but you never showed that it was timed spark- get it. Find #1 on the distro cap and the hand crank the engine to TDC on the crank pully and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 spot--Be advised you could be 180 out so rotate the crank again (one more circle) and see if it lines up then.
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15 Minutes to tell. Watch out as my 2.0L 16V is an interferrence engine that bends valves when the belt breaks. I thnk we share bottom ends(all the muti-valves are interferrence engines)
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Check it out sounds familiar though.
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Well I've found that on a few occasions it can actually be a crank or cam sensor that tells the box when to fire.. Take a look at those and Good Luck
Kristopher
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its getting to much gas ether its the presure regulator or your egr valve. to check the presure disconnect the return line and do a fuel test like before if its not flowing stedy regulator is bad. and pushing the fuel down the injectors. this is how it works when the car is starting the presure should be low when it is driving the vacum hose on the side sucks less closing the valve leting in more fuel presure. so you should check the hose for vacum at idle and it should become lower with the more gas you give it.its the oposite for the presure more gas more presure. now to the egr valve that is the same as presure low or no vacum at idle and more with more gas you give it open the valve. to see if its opening take a small screw driver or nail and look for a hole under the round top with the hose to it. push it up and release if it does not move its stuck and needs to be taken off and cleaned with a wire and carb spray. put back to gether and start it. if it starts rev it and recheck all the above. when runing and it it dies when you lift the egr valve up that is normal. it means its working.More Questions & Answers ...
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