1996 Audi A4 Idleing Problem?

I have a 1996 Audi A4 2.6 with 120K on it. the other night I started my car up and I noticed that it was idleing a little different than normal. The RPM gauge was bouncing from 1K - 1.5K. I started to drive it to see if it would go away. When I was cruising at any RPM's and then I let off the gas the RPM's would stay where I had last had them for about 2-3 secs then the RPM's would just drop down to 1K. If I put the car in Netruel or push the clutch in the RPM's would start bouncing again. This is the first time I have had any problems like this with the car. Any Ideas?? Is it safe to drive from here to there? I need to get to work and back for a couple days until I canget an appt... Thanks

Answers:

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Your idle air control valve is sticking or you have a slight vacuum leak.It should be ok to drive as long as no engine management control light is on.

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sounds like all it needs is a tune up, should be safe to drive.

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I'm not so sure, but it just might be a sensor-like air flow or a vacum leak...or maybe the idles just need to be adjusted, perhaps it's time for a tune-up, Spark plugs , wires, air filter, FUEL filter...

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Take some time and ask around, get it checked or check it yourself...i doubt it's a big problem, and i would say it's okay to drive...of course if the trouble changes or gets worse, give it attention ASAP.

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Best wishes, start with the least expensive and note what was done and what might need to be done.

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"/JOe

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It is hard to tell what is going on without more information, but really it would be hard to know even with more information. Throttle body? Fuel? MAF? Flywheel? Yeah, possibly a combination of those things. But who knows? Your A4 is monitored by an OBD-II(on-board diagnostic) computer and if your car is not idling right, it is an almost definite possibility that your OBD has thrown one or more DTCs(Diagnostic Trouble Codes). Finding the DTC(s) will help you pinpoint or directly identify the problem(s) with your car. You can have these codes scanned by your dealer or a maintenance shop with a VAS5051 computer... OR... you can get your own VAG-Com at www.ross-tech.com. I'm not trying to sell the VAG-Com to you... i'm only suggesting it because VAG-Com is pretty much the standard for doing this kind of stuff yourself (scanning for codes and diagnostic data). Check out Audiworld Forums and you'll see that just about everyone has a VAG-Com. My Audi dealer wanted to charge me $120 to scan for codes. I took my laptop out of my trunk and scanned it in front of my service rep for free. Your maintenance shop may or may not charge you to scan... my new Hungarian mech does it for free.

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It may easily be something simple like a malfunctioning MAF or O2 sensor. If you haven't been maintaining your car per spec it could be almost anything. Either way, your friendly neighborhood Audi engineer wired in just about every vital component into the OBD-II computer and specified some pretty tight operating tolerances for trouble codes.

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Rule of thumb... if you're not throwing a CEL light (check engine light) or making any weird noises, it is generally safe to drive. I'd take it in though, that's some weird behavior for a motor.

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Don't do all the repairs you can think of because you can't figure out the problem. Let the computer tell you what the problem is first. That is how mechanics do it. These cars are not cheap to buy, maintain, or repair. Fixing random things without knowing what the real problem is is going to cost you a lot more than just scanning the computer.
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