Has anyone rebuilt an engine for 1971 vw bus ? (1600cc) If so, can you tell me if its very complicated to...?

Question:
remove the engine from the vehicle? And is the rebuild very involved? The problem I am having is the bus stalls as soon as it gets warm and kicks down....It also seems it drains the battery even though the generator pushes almost 12 volts. It seems to run strong when its cold. Everyone I talk to is saying its something internal , such as rings or valves , I'm not so sure though. Any info would be apprieciated. Thanks!

Answers:

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sounds like something with the ignition system possibly the points. If your points are too close together and once the engine warms up the points are more likely to expand and close shut on you. Thats why when setting the valve lash or installing a new set of points the engine needs to be stark cold. Those vw engines are made to expand and contract considerably. They make drop-in electronic points now a days for under 49$bucks. That will cure that points and condensor problem for good. I doubt you need a rebuild. But if you wanna check and see, a compression test on all the cylinders will be all the signs you need. Try the "idiot manual" by john muir for aircooled vw beginners. good luck.

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i rebuilt one in my life,,and that was over 25 years ago,and the hardest thing for me was getting it out,,as far as the engine goes,,there real easy to build,,but getting it out wasn't that easy,,once its out though,,you can get all kinds of books on them,,and you can do a good job on it,,if you,ll take your time,,good luck i hope this help,s.

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If your going to rebuild your engine you should get How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen air-Cooled Engine ISBN-10: 0895862255. Its got everything you should need to go through the whole process. Also Hot VWs is almost done with a four-month series on building a 40+ mpg vw engine. Id recommend the book first though as its more in depth. Im fixint to pull my engine and rebuild it as well, this has helped in the planning.

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I rebuilt a vw dune buggy engine in high school. You definitely need a book with specific info on vw engines. It really isn't that complicated, but the engine doesn't go together like a typical Chevy or Ford. It's more like a motorcycle engine, with its split crankcase design, cylinder jugs, external pushrod tubes and an unbelievable number of gaskets, seals, and O-rings designed to hopefully keep the oil in it instead of on your garage floor. Mess up on any step of the assembly and you will have major oil leaks.
Replace all of the studs coming out of the engine block. These stretch over the years and are bad about breaking when re-torqued. It may take some heating with a torch to get them out without breaking them. New ones will greatly improve your chances of a successful rebuild. All of the parts must be aligned perfectly before the head bolts are tightened and torqued to spec with a torque wrench. Use RTV silicone on any paper gaskets (not metal or rubber ones). This will help prevent leaks. Otherwise, it's pretty much like rebuilding any other engine.

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it is easy for an engine rebuild, and there are many good books, and you don't need too many special tools, BUT, it is not easy if you are not pretty mechanically inclined. Best bet is to get a rebuilt long-block and just switch out the peripheral parts (fan housing, manifolds, generator, etc.)

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Check:
busdepot.com

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Maybe there is some info for you there.

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Well, rebuilding the engine is not hard if you have a good 'how to' book.

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BUT ... before you start, it does not sound like an engine problem.

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The ignition and electrical system are completely separate from the engine. If your battery is dying (and I assume that the battery is good), then replacing the engine will do about as much good as changing the tires.

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Try pulling all your fuses except for the one that makes the car run (the point) and see if the battery still dies (?)

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As far as the cold goes.... that could be several things that are easy to first check.

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1) Check your carb. Is it sticking shut? It woud run fine cold but starve out when the engine is warm but the choke still closed

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2) Check the fuel valve that is attached to the carb. (looks like a jet with a wire to it about midway on the carb. If it is bad it can cut off fuel to the carb. (plus since it is electric it can slowly drain the battery - admittedly a long shot on the electric end).

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3) Check your fuel pump..... install a glass filter in line and when th engine starts to die check to see if i still has gas in it. (A cheap experiment and you need a fuel filter anyway).

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4) An engine CAN sieze up as it warms up. That usually means that a moving part is failing. Rods and cranks make noise....pistons and valves blow oil. If your engine is not smoking or making new noises this is a good sign that the engine is ok.

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5) For the battery thing, check the relay between the alternator and the engine. If it is fried you could have your battery discharge easily. Somewhere it will usually be very hot if it has gone South on you

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Thats some ideas... hope they help and save you an engine job.
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