Bmw 528i E39 starts but when up to temp cuts out and wont start again untill its cooled a bit?

Question:
AA told me its the fule pump relay so i changed it then i changed the pump and filter but its still the same can u HELP...

Answers:

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check the sensors around the flywheel

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It's probably a sensor.

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If it has an overhead cam, then it will have a crank and cam position sensor to let it know if the timing belt breaks or jumps time so that it can shut off the engine to avoid damaging itself.

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The only way to figure out which one it is, is to try swapping one at a time and see if the problem goes away.

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I am not too sure how to cure your problem because it seems that it may be one of any number of probs.
The link below is probably the best place to start your quest.
Good luck

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The problem is high temp , If so Please see the coolant . water pump,fan belt ,spark plugs.radiator.

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get a diagnostic test done other wise it could cost you dearly in the end , good luck

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I own a shop, and I can tell you it is hard to determine much about any vehicle without knowing which engine is in the vehicle, and the year it was manufactured.
I have seen this problem at least a hundred times. The usual cause of this is; the coil/coil pack. It can also be caused by an ignition control module, if your vehicle has one. Matter of fact, I worked on a vehicle with the same problem yesterday and it was the coil pack. When the engine came up to temperature, the number 4 cylinder would stop firing, or would go to a very weak fire. If your vehicle is a 1996 or newer it should have set off a code in the computer to verify this, if not then you are left to guess at it. The clue here is; it starts, and when it comes up to normal temperature it begins to cut out. Cutting out is either a loss of fuel, or power, and since you did the fuel it only leaves power. You might want to take it in to have a mechanic find the problem. Don't guess at what it is, or have someone say this or that about what it might be. You can end up spending a war pension on the vehicle, and still have the same problem. I have seen this, fixed this, and know from experience that you can spend a lot of money throwing parts at it. BMW makes a fine vehicle, and they are very reliable. They don't have many problems with them, and when they do its usually not that big of a deal to repair. Have it checked out, and I'm sure you will find a loss of power on the plugwires.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!

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That car doesn't have a fuel pump relay. I don't know what you replaced that you thought was a fuel pump relay, but the fuel pump gets its signal from the DME (digital motor electronics) control unit.

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Somebody earlier mentioned a "coil pack" and "ignition control module" This car doesn't have either of those.

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Without seeing your car, people here are only guessing...even us pros. My guess is a fuel pump, one or more of the individual ignition coils, or a sensor. You claim that you replaced the fuel pump, but then again you claim to have replaced the fuel pump relay...which the e39 doesn't have...

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Good luck.

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Beside an air filter is.t the box. this terma relay opening and clouzding air suplay for engin.When engin hot relay wrongly clousing air hol and engin stops-coll-open again.

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Take in and have it looked at. At the rate you are going there wll be no vehicle to look at..
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