Question:
I asked why left-front wheel lock up. Following Mr.KnowItAll, I replace master cylinder (since no tool to check pressure). I put it at drive as it on jacks. RF wheel is freely tuning, while LF does not move unless I push hard on gas pedal. After 20 minutes road-drive, RF wheel remains cool but LF one is getting warmer, but not hot--this is improved! My question is then why LF is locked and RF free turning in drive mode on jacks. Is this a good test for braking problem? My ABS uses 4-channel diagonal split hydraulic system: secondary part (with a damper) of master cylinder supply LF/RR, primary supply RF/LR. If the damper is to slow fluid pass, it explains why liquid drops 4 times slower in LF than RF brake hose. Does this also explain no move/free turning difference? If this test is not valid, are there good tests I can perform to check if the wheel lock-up problem is completely solved? My last option is to replace the ABS:too expensive for me to think of. Greatly appreciate your help
Answers:
Can a broken belt make a engine block shake when it is started or in park?
try replacing the brake hose.sometimes the inside of the hose detierates and clogs the line.agree with snake, jack it back up and loosen the brake line on the back of the caliper if fluid comes out and it loosens up, tighten it back up and pump the brakes till it locks up again. then loosen the brake line behind the rubber hose where metal line meets metal line (should be a break in the line around the control arm) if it doesnt loosen the wheel up its the rubber brake line.
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