Question:
96 s10 v6 4.3. new compressor and accumulator.Never did this before.
Answers:
I need Help if you know about Hondas?
YOU can't. Unless you have an evacuator in your garage.The propper amount of oil needs to be added as well as freon.
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It needs to be "evacuated" after assembly to remove ALL the moisture in the system.
Then propperly charged, and leak tested.
You can assemble it, then have it serviced..
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i own a repair shop,and you really cant flush one out ,what happens is you pull down on the vacuum,and see if it holds good,this in turn will pull anything out of it that don't belong there,that's the only real way to do it ,and if it holds then you refill it,there shouldn't be anything in it just from changing compressors,so if it pulls down good it should have good cold air when its done,good luck i hope this helps.Can anyone tell me what other cars have the same lug nut pattern as FWD Oldsmobile?
you need a tech or read up. get a bag to disharge old freon into so you dont f up the planet.they make flushing systems for a/c. it is used when a compressor has failed and debris are still in the system. you can do a flush without the tools. disconnect the hoses from the compressor and the accumulator, with a small funnel, pour denatured alcohol in the lines and use compressed air to blow through the hoses, condenser, and evaporator, avoiding flushing through the orifice tube. you will need to add oil to the components as much of it will be flushed out. when evacuating the system before charging, leave the vacuum on it for at least 45 mins to insure all moisture and solvent is removed.
step 1 un hook all lines in system ,throw away your drier.
step 2 use air pressure and blow opsite of freon flow on evap and condensorbig line blow in and out side is small one,do this a few times in short bursts to free up lodged particles.
step 3 do the same the other way only a couple times if nothing comes out<material and oil > go back and reverse flow again and leave air on for a little around a min or so ,you should see dirty oil coming out ,it may not be much so dont walk away .
step 4 use 1 can of crc brake clean <red can and put in the same as before reverse flow put it in fast at first then slow down the flow there should ony be slight liquid at thhi point coming out empty 1/2 the can then put your air presure back in and blow out liquid with your air nozzle wide open ,repeat with other 1/2 both evap <smaller may not need to use all of the other 1/2 of the can .
step 5 put a couple of ounces of oil <see your ac id tag for rec oil type<very impiortant you have a r134a system do not used r12 <black o rings>or mineral oil of any kind this will cause sludge and will cost you another compressor ,blow out oil and see if its pretty clean you may not be able to get 100 % clean oil out this is ok thats what the reciver drier will assist with
step 6 add 2 ounces of oil to every new part <drier and condencsor and evaporator <this is on the fire wall the other is in front of radiator ,just in case>now your system is flushed there are a few key things in order for your system to operate correctly,your parts to last and stop leakage,oil all orings when assembling ,replace the drier and expansion valve ,do not open the drier caps or plugs until you are readyto install and pull under vacume or your drier will be no good ,after about 10-15 min the decasent balls that absorb moisture will be full and then they will not perform there job correctly <moisture causes corrosion in ac systems>so get the whole system ready and your vacume pump hooked in and rerady then install the reciever drier and evacuate promptly .all book s will tell you to vacume for 20-30min then .next step.wrong you have just replaced the drier and the books all refer to a evacuation and recharge with monor repair <ie a scrader valve with the suystem only being open for about 3-5 min>your eentire sytem has been open and is now contaminated with moisture,thats what the vacume pump is for ,and with r134 a systems the more moisture you pull out the more cooling capacity you will gain ,on average i vacume down an r134a system for about 2-2.5 hours ,then let it sit and make sure 1 you obtained at leat 28in of vacume <so hopefully you are conected through your gauges,let the system stand for 1 hour and see if the vacume stays the same if you loose vacume you may or maynot have a leak ,unless it never reaches or looses rapidly ie in 1 hour and you have almost noe or have lost more than 5 inches of vacume,depending on how humid it is out when your performing this will determin if you had any moisture expansion<drier absorbed moisture rereleased in system,if so evacuate for 1 hour longer ,if you follow these directions your should be able to put about an extra 1/2 pound of froen in and drop your vent outlet temp from around 48 degrees to 42 or more ,what your pressures as filling and r134a will act funny on presures when the system is reaching over capacity more than the extra 1/2 pound i sopke of ,it can either drop in presure and start to equilize or the high side will rise your looking for around 32-36 psi on low and 280-350 on high depending on how hot it outside or if your not outside and your in an enclosed area.put a temp gauge in center vent the ac on max high recycle <if you have a recycle buttton otherwise just max cool ,watch temp once you nearing the factory full mark ,and remember when charging the system vent temp will drop fast when putting it in and it can take a min to cyle all the way through the system before you will get an acurate reading ,and the put 2 ounces at a time untill the temp stops droppuing or you see frost on the low side line consistantly,hope i helped and its not as hard as it seems but after 16 years of auto ac system repairs this will bring you colder and more reliable ac system performance .thanks hope i didnt scare you with the info
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