Question:
Okay, I have a 99 alero, and want to replace the wheel bearings myself. The dealership wants 315 for just one side, and I want to do both at the same time. Does anyone know of a site, or a book that I can buy to do this myself. OR, if any of you are kind enough to give me the "wheel bearings for dummies" version on here, you would help me tremendously.
Answers:
bad t/a needs ideas; should i dyno?
In the auto parts store there are how-to books for most vehicles. Here's also a couple links that might help. Good luck!can i weld a small pin whole on my gas tank using MiG welding?
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityours...
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http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/...
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http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityours...
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You need special tools and knowledge. Pay the man.95 Dodge Dakota won't start. What could it be?
buy a chilton or haynes manual for your car at the local part storeDodgeman, gotta Mopar part question.?
try a haynes manual from autozone. i'm not sure whats in them since i've never had to use them, but try them.v belt for 1975 cadillac motor?
the reason its 315 is it is not easy. at least a 20 swear word job.The dealer isn't the only game in town. Ask at the independent shop and see what they say.
I haven't done a wheel bearing job in years. Last time was in the Army wayyyyyy back and it was on a deuce.
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I do remember that it really wasn't that hard but there was some swearing and I think it did require some sort of special tool that would not be something the everyday person would have kicking around in the craftsman $99.99 tool set.
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Hope this helps.
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definitely get a chilton or haynes repair manual for your vehicle along with a couple jack stands for safety while you work on it and get prepared for some hard work.. Do one side at a time so you always have the other to look at if you get lost. Of course when you are done the vehicle will have to go in for an alignment if you are doing the front wheel bearings as you have to unhook the the strut to swing it out.. Just take your time and make sure you have all the right tools before you start and keep your cool.. more vehicles are damaged from disgusted mechanics than by wreckless driving.. lol.. good luckas stated earlier try the auto parts store and buy a book covering that car then get your parts and tools together and say a few swear words and you will be done. I am a "shade tree mechanic and have done this type of work before it is not all that hard. if you have not done this before then get a book for it
Why can't the Yahoo team leave something alone, especially if it's working well?
Do you need to? They should be good for a LONG time. If you have a strange problem, it may be a gob of mud stuck in the wheel, or a tire giong bad.It depends on which wheel bearings you are doing. If it's a front wheel drive, front bearings may be included in a 'hub assembly' that the axle shaft goes through, and takes a huge socket and a large installation torque to do it right. Some front wheel drive cars may have separate front wheel bearings, but I haven't run into any. Rear wheel drive cars have separate front wheel bearings, and they are easier to change, but of course you need to be careful to keep from tightening them up too much.
Rear wheel bearing son front wheel drive cars are often 'hub assemblies' and are just held on with a few bolts, but you have to disconnect and reconnect and bleed your brakes if you do them. Rear wheel bearings on a rear wheel drive are a major job, messy and stinky, often requiring special tools.
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Front I take it .??Jack the car up
Remove front tires
Remove brake calliper (you do not have to remove from car just undo the mounting bolt and pull it out and hag it of the strut bottom)
Remove brake rotor
Look through the hub assembly find the 3 bolts holding the hub to the spindle
Remove bolts
remove the large nut holding the hub to the axle shaft
Tap the hub with a hammer it should come free
Replace the hub tighten the bolts and continue the instruction in rev till you've got no bolts and parts left.
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One thing to remember the part is the whole hub and for you to buy it is going to be a couple of hundred each plus you'll have to buy a 3/8 hex head socket and a 36 mm socket for the hub nut and if anythings frozen your going bust a knuckle or two.Paid the shop it easier and cheaper in the long run Good luck hope I helped
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GM tech for 20 years
get the manual, chilton hanes, it will tell you what tools you need
depending on wether its the front or back the front is easy. you will get grease all over you. but all you have to do for the front is, remove the wheel,remove the brake calliper, remove the dust cap, it shoud just pry off. then remove the cotter pin that runs through the nut that holds your disk in place. after that the bearing should be exposed just knock it out with a small hammer and replace the sleeve in the rotor disk. make sure to grease the neqw bearing with bearing grease. then put it all back in reverse order. if that was a little confusing im sorry, but the chilton manual can explain much better. it took me about an hour on my 87 mustang. its not rocket science just be patient and dont cut corners.
I agree with rudedude. I would also like to add, that if you are going to replace the front hub & bearing assemblies, buy the parts ONLY FROM the GM dealer! I have seen TOO MANY aftermarket wheel bearings make a HORRIBLE crackling, or racheting sound after replacement, causing further "guessing games" of replacing expensive and uneeded parts. I would definitely recommend using an impact gun to remove and install the 36mm axle nut that rudedude referred to in his instruction to you. Do not forget the ABS connector and retainer.
I have spots on the inside of my windshield right about in the area where the defrosters blow .?
Rudedude nailed it.Engine on my car wont stop, why?
I wouldnt think of doing this job without A good 1/2 impact. Ive run into a few wheel nuts where the IR2135ti has to work to get it off, and 1/2 guns dont come too much more powerful than that. You will also need a socket. I dont know the size on your car, but since its a GM, its probably a 30 or 36mm.
If you dont have the right tools, this job will suck 3X as much. Im not sure about your car in particular, but if its got ABS and the sensor is built into the hub, the hub itself will be expensive.
Most recent wheel bearings I did were on a ford explorer, both sides. Using Fed.Mog. hubs, the bill wound up being over 800$, and as I recall, we didnt even charge book time.
Sometimes dealers are a rip, other times they can do a job for less than us. Eitherway, It isnt the easiest of DIY jobs, so unless you have the tools and a bit of experience, it might be worth just having it done and saving youself the headache. It will be much more expenive if you start the job and decide you got in over your head than it would be to just have the job done at a shop the first place. Also, consider getting a 2nd quote.
I hope this helps you at least a little in deciding what you would like to do.
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Jim
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Why would you want to change wheel bearings ?? Is this some guess work or what is the problem. Wheel bearings on both wheels would take less than 2 hours to do and the parts should be about $20 to $30. per wheel. There are two bearings in each plus race, (called cone and cup) and a new seal. It would be rare for wheel brgs' to be bad unless they have got water or some such in them. Get a book as advised and be very careful to follow directions. a tight bearing will burn up.how hard is it to put a heater core in a 95 cougar?
get a haynes book.it tell how to change the front and back bearings.Rudedude and Michael. C have this one nailed.
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you need to know what you are doing before you even start this job but before you start to tare apart your car think about this what if every thing is rusted to gather and you can't get the axle out of the hub and you have no air hammer or torch to get it out.
At which point does fuel freeze?
I think that you are going to have better luck letting the mechs handle this one.
because there is nothing worse then having to deal with something that some one already has half torn apart.
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