Does anyone know how to bleed the brakes on a 1991 buick lesabre?

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How to bleed brakes

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This procedure will work great if there are no mechanical problems in your brake system. Bleeding brakes WILL NOT repair mechanical damage! For example if your master cylinder or a wheel cylinder is bad you can bleed the brakes all day long and your brakes will still not work, or will not work correctly.

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There are several ways to do this job - one involves 2 people, one pumping the brake pedal and the other opening and closing the respective bleeder valve at each wheel. This method is great for Father/Son/Daughter quality time but doesn't actually work very reliably for bleeding the brakes unless you have lots of practice. The reason is that if anybody makes a mistake in the execution of this "dance" it introduces air back into the system and you need to start over. The other problem with this system is that it takes 2 people, sometimes a luxury we don't have.

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The first thing is that if you have changed the master cylinder it needs to be bled separately. Buy one of the $3 master cylinder bleeder kits from the auto parts store, or take an old brake line and bend it around so the end goes back into the fluid reservoir on top. You need 2 lines on a dual master cylinder. Fill the cylinder's reservoir and clamp the flange in the vice on your bench. Using a large Philips screwdriver pump the cylinder until all the air is gone from the brake fluid. It helps to stop every few pumps and let the air rise out of the reservoir. You can do this same job with it mounted in the car but it makes a mess and is more complicated if you have power brakes.

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The one real "trick" is to build and use a catch bottle at the wheel end of the system. I use a 1 liter plastic pop bottle with a 1/4" hole drilled through the cap. Then you will need about a 2 feet long piece of 1/4" clear surgical rubber tubing. Push the tubing through the hole in the cap and all the way down to the bottom of the bottle. Then fill the bottle about 1/4 of the way up with brake fluid.

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You will have a lot better success on a car with power brakes if you start the engine and just let it idle. Some cars will pump just fine without the power assist, others will just never bleed out. Better safe then sorry, start the car. On non power systems it makes no difference, leave it shut off.

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Go to the right side rear wheel of the car and open the bleeder valve about 1 turn. Push the end of the tube onto the tapered end of the bleeder valve and make sure the bottle is supported on something solid. Make sure the tube is immersed in the brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle. With the master cylinder full go inside and pump the pedal no more then 5 times and check the master cylinder level again. You want to be careful not to run the reservoir out of fluid or you will have to start over again. Top it off when necessary during this process. Now pump it about 5 more times and check it again. Repeat, repeat repeat. Check the bottle about every 10 pumps for getting too full.

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At this point what you want to look for is bubbles/air in the hose going to the bottle. Once you reach the point that you are not getting any more bubbles then there is no more air in that line. Always close the bleeder before you remove the hose, that way no new air has a chance to get into the system.

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Then move on to the left rear, the right front, and the left front.

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If you follow this procedure you will have done a proper brake bleeding job and will have no air left in the system. I hope this helps save you a lot of hassles.

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pretty much the same way you bleed the brakes on any other car

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sure, gravity bleeding is best. fill master cyl. open bleed screw on r/r then bleed all air out. go to l/r then r/f then l/f. and then refill m/cyl.

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start with the brake that's farthest and work your way up. open the bleed valve and pump the brakes until clean fluid comes out. you can buy a bleeder, if you don't have any body to pump the brake pedal.

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On any vehicle when bleeding brakes the best way is to leave all your valves on the wheel cylinders open and let the brake fluid reach by gravity making sure not to let the master cylinder never goes dry. Then after the fluids has arrived close all the valves and starting from the furthest valve have someone pump the brake pedal three times keeping it depressed while you open the valve slightly to let the air out. Repeat this procedure for the remaining valves from the furthest to the closest or until you have a firm pedal.

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Yes. Much easier if you have it on the lift of course. Make sure the master cylinder is full, find the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Find the bleed screw, may be under a rubber cap. While your friend steps on the brake, loosen the bleeder which you have attached a small rubber hose to, and you have the other end of the hose in a clear container with some brake fluid. His foot will drop as the fluid comes out. Have him hold the pedal at the bottom while you tighten the bleeder, then he can release. Repeat this until there are no more bubbles in the line. Move to the next closest wheel and repeat. Check the master cylinder frequently, you don't want it to go dry.

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When you have done all 4, you're finished. Make sure you have a good firm pedal now.

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Of course if you don't have a lift, you will have to scoot under the car to do this. Ask at your favorite auto parts store for a bleeder kit, it will have the hose and the bottle you need.

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Make sure the brake fluid reservoir ( Master Cylinder) is full. Have someone sit in the car and pump up the brakes. After they pump a few times have them hold pressure on the brake. Start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear, Using a small open end wrench loosen the bleeder valve (petcock) push a piece of rubber tubing over the head of the valve to enable you to catch the fluid in a can or cup. (Soda bottle works good) then, while holding pressure on the brake open the valve an let some fluid run out . Immediately close the bleeder valve before you let up on the brake pedal. Repeat this two or three times or until no air is being pushed out of the line. After bleeding each brake, fill the master cylinder again. When the fluid goes out it also pushes out any air that's in the lines Tell the person inside that is pumping up the brakes not to release the brake pedal until you have the valve closed or air will be pulled back into the lines. After doing the right rear move to to the left rear then to the right front and last the left front.
If this doesn't help out then you need probably to replace the Master Cylinder.
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