83 Mercedes 300D. How do I determine why the vacuum-driven shut off valve is not working?

Question:
I have checked all the vacuum lines and they are fine. I have also checked and I know I am getting vacuum...

Answers:

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most times it is a failure of the power locks that rob vacuum away from engine kill. cap off supply of vacuum to yellow and yellow/red tubes and now cut off switch does the engine cut out immediately? if not get a length of 3/16 vacuum hose while engine is running [in park with e-brake set] disconnect brown tube with blue stripe at the governor / injection pump place your vacuum hose on spigot and suck if engine shuts off immediately the diaphragm is good and you need to look elsewhere the next suspect is the vac switch at the ign lock these are cheap and easy to put on just be sure that brown tube with blue stripe goes to blue dot mark on switch. if oil is found any where in system the engine stop diaphragm should be replaced and the vacuum pump rebuilt or replaced these jobs are for trained techs only note it is wise to install a old style fuel filter,[ clear with paper element] for a old v.w. beetle in the vac supply line [this prevents oil migration and tells on bad pumps or leaky diaphragms

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If engine oil appears in vacuum lines or brake booster, you may find that the diaphragm in the vacuum control unit or the one in the vacuum pump is defective.

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The appearance of engine oil necessitates the replacement of the vacuum control unit and also of the vacuum lines carrying oil. The vacuum pump will have to be repaired and the brake booster exchanged if they show oil at the vacuum line connection.

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Leakage through the vacuum pump diaphragm or through the vacuum control unit at the injection pump will allow engine oil to reach the combustion chambers through the suction pipe, causing a higher combustion temperature which may damage the precombustion chambers.

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If the full length of the vacuum lines is a dark black it may be assumed that engine oil has entered the combustion chamber. In this case you are advised to check all the precombustion chambers.

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Precombustion chambers which are cracked at the bottom or have burnt (scaly) ball pin surfaces, have to be exchanged because engine damage due to breaking precombustion chamber parts will otherwise have to be taken into account.

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Checking
Run engine.
Disconnect vacuum line (brown) at Tee piece (7) and check whether pressure is negative or not.
a) Should this not be the case, unscrew vacuum line with Tee piece at vacuum pump and brake booster.

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Check throttle in Tee piece for obstructions, blowing out with compressed air if necessary.

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Note: On vehicles with diaphragm vacuum pump. If throttle is oiled up, diaphragm in vacuum pump may be defective. Throttle is defective, if engine oil shows up at connection of vacuum line (pump end). Reconditioning of vacuum pump is described in repair instructions brakes model 115 and 123.

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b) If pressure at Tee piece is negative, connect vacuum control unit (3) straight to Tee piece (7) via a hose.

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The vacuum from vacuum pump (8) now acts direct on the diaphragm in vacuum control unit (3) and draws the injection pump control rod to the stop position.

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Exchange the vacuum control unit if engine does not stop immediately. See: Service and Repair

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Immediate stoppage of engine means that vacuum control unit is in good working order. In this case, trouble may be due to sticking of valve (1) in steering lock. Exchange valve with reference to repair instructions for steering system models 115 and 123.

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Attention: Do not cross vacuum lines when reconnecting.

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Run engine. Check vacuum control unit and valve in steering lock for satisfactory operation, and examine injection pump for leakage.
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