How do the classifications work when you have an accident?Is a cat a the worst or cat d?

Question:


Answers:

Motor Oil....?

Here's a quick sum-up of the insurance write-off catagories.

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Cat. A: Utter wreck, must be crushed completely and never seen on the road again. Ever.

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Cat. B: Undamaged parts may be removed and sold on/used again, but main structure of vehicle must be crushed.

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Cat. C: Relatively minor damage that would cost more to repair than value of car, but can be put back on the road after repair.

Blazer S10 1989 Submirged in water problem...?


Cat. D: As above, light damage, but insurer decided not to repair for cost reasons or otherwise.

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Cat. F: Fire damage.

smoke out of the defroster vents?


As mentioned, you can repair a lightly damaged car and use it for yourself, but when you come to sell, people are going to be somewhat intimidated by such a blot on the history of the car.

Why do I need an innter cooler with the supercharger I just bought?

Cat A is a total write off. The car will be badly mangled. Cat D is very minor with often no damage. It can be accident damage, or broken door lock, to being stolen and car turning up months after insurance paid out, costs of repairs are not economic to insurance company. There are bargains out there, but buy carefully.

I have a 1992 cadillac seville it runs and drives great sometimes the transmission will slip when i take off?

Cat D just means the insurers have decided it's not financially worth repairing.

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Sometimes you can pick up a bargain and repair it if you want, but you'll have a hell of a job when you come to sell.

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Cat A is a ball of scrap.

My car makes a squeeling noise...what could it be?

Cat A = total write off, no parts should be reused.
Cat B = total write off, parts can be reused.
Cat C & D = different levels of uneconomic repair using original new parts.
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