Replacing rings in my engine, need to hone?

Question:
My car smokes like a freight train, has for years. I am finally replacing the rings, and wondered if there is no obvious signs of wear on the cylinder walls, do they need honed? I've heard ppl say yes, and no, I am just trying to get more opinions before I proceed. Thanks.

Answers:

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Yes--it needs a good cross-hatch ;Other-wise it could still burn oil. But, I would prefer that you bored out the cylinders first then honed. that way you would remove any out of round and taper to the cylinder--just giving the simplest answer

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the answer is yea You need to..........

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chech the top of the cylinder wall..how big is the difference (or big the step) betwin the top of the cylinder and 1/2 inch below of the top ? .big grove?
is the cylinder out round.

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if You don't have big difference then no need to....

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any big diference might brake the new rings

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Yes you need to at least hone. You likely need to bore it and put new pistons in

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If the car was smoking like you say there is going to be signs of wear on the cylinder walls. Even still it is a good idea to hone the cylinders to ensure proper ring sealing. If you don't the rings will not wear to match the cylinders.

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i own a repair shop,and you have to hone any of them out before installing new rings in them,if you don't there's a chance the new rings wont seat good ,and it may still smoke ,but honing and boring is two different things ,some people get the two confused,all honing does is prepare the surface so the new rings will seat in good,and you also need to use a ridge reamer on it,and cut the ridge out of the very top of the block,right at the top of it,you may be able to feel this with your finger nail,if you can this needs done,or else it can break the new top compression ring when it is started,and you end up with a broken ring,and an engine that wont run right at all ,its a good idea to use a good repair manual when building one,it gives a lot of good information on what needs to be done,good luck with it ,i hope this help,s.

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Yes, every time new rings are fitted, the cylinders must be honed. The cross hatch pattern from the honing seats the rings. If you don't hone it correctly, the rings won't seat. You will lose power and it will continue to smoke like hell. You can use either the 3-stone spring unit, or the "bottle brush" hone attached to a drill. The bottle brush style works better. Be sure to use a good deal of oil when honing, and flush the cylinders will rags and WD-40 to get the hone grit/oil out when your done.

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You must check ring gap, and file rings if not set correctly. Read installation sheet that comes with the rings. Ring end-gap must be correct or rings will wear out quickly. They must be installed on the right groove, and the correct side must face up. Carbon deposits must be cleaned from ring grooves.

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You can use an old ring and a feelergauge to check cylinder bore taper. That'll tell you what the cylinder wall taper (wear) is. You can't "see" cylinder wear, besides the ridge that wears at the top of the cylinder.

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Piston rings are only part of the equation. Worn valve guides or valve stem seals in head will pull a lot of oil from valvetrain, and smoke. Check for oil coking on intake valves or intake ports.

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There is no need to hone provided that the over sized rings slide freely at the top of the sleeve.

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The answer is yes and here is why. What you are doing is to break the shiny glaze so the new rings will seat.
What you need is to do is put 60 degree hash marks on the cylinder walls so the new ring will seat.

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The majority says yes. And I agree. I'd hate to see you do all that work, and then have to do it over again. Its an important step.You have it apart now so "do it right, once".

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Yes, always bust the glaze or the new rings will not seat in. Cut out the ring grove at the top of the cylinder. Also check the diameter of he cylinder down a half inch and ever inch for the next four inches. If it is larger at the top reading maybe you should bore the block and install new pistons.

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Don`t forget to grind the valves, and install new valve seals. Also check the guides.

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If I've gone that far in opening the engine, I'd just take the heads to a machine shop to be checked out, honed, and given a valve job. While they're there, you can hone the core cylinders and get everything cleaned up and ready to put back together. No sense opening it all up and then only rebuilding halfway. And it makes no sense to match up new rings with old, lumpy, and glazed cylinder walls! Check the rods too, and if the lifters are hydraulic, replace them all. They aren't that expensive, and now's the best time to do that.
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